When one hears, or smells, the word "fish sauce" there is usually a crinkled nose somewhere. However, for people in the know (who may refer to it as "nuoc mam), their eyes will smile with only a touch of trepidation. In pure form, no one likes going near this stuff. But, when used properly, this smelly, salty, unsavory brown sauce can transform the most humble dish into a mouthwatering masterpiece.
Soup too bland? Put some fish sauce in it. Fried rice too eggy? Put some fish sauce in it. Is your dish missing something? Fish sauce! It is one of life's curious mysteries that a liquid made from salting and fermenting layers of fish would 1) be discovered and 2) be the most important ingredient for Vietnamese cooking. The Thais, Laotians and Khmers like it, too.
The truly unique quality of this stuff is its multifaceted nature. Leave it alone and it is like Lot's wife (i.e. salt pillar). Cook it and it becomes sweet or savory. Mix it with lemon and sugar, and it becomes a delicious dipping sauce. Marinate with it. Stir fry with it. Dump it over noodles or meats or vegetables. Use it boldly or go for a most subtle flavor.
Either way, while cooking with my grandmother, I learn: this stuff fixes everything. Not too shabby for something people fear when they don't know any better.
Just don't get any on your clothes.
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